The basic rule: centre at eye level

Galleries generally hang art so the centre of the piece sits around 145–155 cm from the floor, roughly average eye level. Use this as your starting point for any wall without furniture under it. Measure to the centre of the artwork, not the top.

Hanging art above a sofa

• Leave about 15–25 cm between the top of the sofa and the bottom of the frame. Any higher and the art disconnects from the sofa.
• Aim for the artwork (or group of artworks) to be about two-thirds the width of the sofa.
• Centre it on the sofa, not on the wall, if the two aren’t aligned.

Hanging art above a bed

The same principle applies: leave roughly 15–25 cm above the bedhead, and aim for about two-thirds of the bed’s width. Choose lightweight pieces and secure fixings above a bed for safety, and avoid heavy glass frames.

Above a sideboard, console or mantel

Leave 15–25 cm between the furniture and the frame. You can lean art on a mantel or sideboard instead, layering a smaller piece in front of a larger one for a relaxed look.

Creating a gallery wall

1. Choose a thread. Consistent frame colours, a shared colour palette or a single theme keeps a gallery wall cohesive.
2. Lay it out on the floor first. Arrange the frames until the balance feels right, with larger pieces towards the centre or bottom.
3. Make paper templates. Trace each frame on paper, mark the hanging point, and tape the templates to the wall. Adjust until it looks right, then hang through the paper.
4. Keep the gaps consistent. Around 5–8 cm between frames works for most gallery walls.
5. Treat the group as one piece. The centre of the whole arrangement should sit at eye level, or 15–25 cm above furniture.

Hanging in hallways and stairwells

In hallways, keep to the eye-level rule and space art evenly along the wall. On stairs, follow the angle of the staircase, keeping the centre of each piece at a consistent height above the step below it.

Fixings and safety

• Use fixings rated for the weight of the artwork. Plasterboard needs wall anchors or a stud.
• Check for hidden pipes and cables with a stud finder before drilling.
• Use two hooks for wider frames so they stay level.
• Renting? Picture rails, adhesive hooks rated for the weight, or leaning art on furniture avoid holes. Check your lease and your state’s rules on hanging pictures before drilling.

Choosing the right size

Art that’s too small for a wall is the second most common mistake. If a single piece looks lost, go bigger, add a wide mat, or group several pieces together. A large, simple artwork almost always looks better than a small, detailed one on a big wall.

FAQ

How high should a picture be hung?

On an empty wall, centre it around 145–155 cm from the floor. Above furniture, leave 15–25 cm between the furniture and the bottom of the frame.

Should art be hung at the same height throughout the house?

Keeping a consistent centre line throughout a room or hallway makes the home feel calmer and more considered.

What size art should go above a sofa?

About two-thirds of the sofa’s width, either one large piece or a group that adds up to that width.

Plan the whole wall. Put your art, wall colour and furniture together on a Design it Yourself style board, using Taubmans colours, Carpet Court flooring and homewares from leading retailers.

Cover photo by Andrew Neel on Unsplash.

Here’s how to style a room on a budget without it looking like you did.

1. Plan before you buy anything

The most expensive styling mistakes are purchases that don’t fit. Before you spend, put the room together on a mood board: your existing pieces, the wall colour and the few things you want to add. You’ll know exactly what you need and, just as importantly, what you don’t.

2. Shop your own home first

Move a lamp from the bedroom, a chair from the dining room, art from the hallway. Rearranging what you already own costs nothing, and you’ll often find the room only needs two or three new things.

3. Declutter and edit

Clearing surfaces is the single cheapest upgrade there is. Group the objects you love in threes, put the rest in storage, and give every surface some breathing room. A styled shelf with five things looks better than a full shelf with twenty.

4. Paint is the best value for money

A few litres of paint changes a room more than almost anything else for the price. Refresh tired walls, paint a feature wall, or paint an old timber piece. Choose your colour carefully; our guide to choosing the right white can save you a second coat of the wrong one.

5. Change the textiles

Cushion covers (keep the inserts), a throw, new curtains or a bedspread can shift the whole palette of a room for a fraction of the cost of new furniture. Natural fabrics like linen and cotton look more expensive than shiny synthetics.

6. Fix the lighting

Overhead lights alone make any room feel flat. Add two or three lamps at different heights and switch to warm white globes. Layered lighting makes inexpensive furniture look far better at night.

7. Get the rug size right

A rug that’s too small makes a room look cheap and disjointed. A larger, simple rug, even an affordable jute or flat-weave, does more than a small expensive one. Check our rug size guide before you buy.

8. Buy second-hand for the big pieces

Solid timber furniture, dining tables, sideboards and mirrors are easy to find second-hand and often better made than new budget pieces. Look for good shapes and solid materials; finishes can be cleaned, oiled or painted.

9. Swap the hardware

New handles on a chest of drawers, kitchen cabinets or a bathroom vanity make old pieces look deliberate. It’s a quick weekend project with a big result.

10. Add plants and greenery

One large plant has more impact than many small ones, and it fills an empty corner for less than a piece of furniture.

11. Spend on one hero piece

If your budget allows one bigger purchase, make it the piece you use and see most: usually the sofa, the bed or a statement light. Keep everything around it simple.

What not to do

• Don’t buy furniture in matching sets. It flattens a room and costs more.
• Don’t buy lots of small decor. A few larger pieces look more considered than many small ones.
• Don’t buy before measuring. Returns cost time and sometimes money.

FAQ

What should I spend money on first?

Plan first, then paint and lighting. They change the room the most for the least money. Then the rug and textiles, then furniture.

How do I make cheap furniture look expensive?

Give it space, use good lighting and pair it with natural materials like linen, timber and wool. Swapping legs or handles also makes a big difference.

Plan the room, then buy only what you need. Build a free style board on Design it Yourself with Taubmans colours, Carpet Court flooring and homewares from leading retailers, and keep your shopping list in one place.

Cover photo by Patrick Perkins on Unsplash.

Here’s how to tell warm whites from cool whites, and how to choose the right one for your room.

What makes a white warm or cool?

• Warm whites have yellow, red or beige undertones. They feel soft, cosy and inviting, and they look creamy in warm light.
• Cool whites have blue, grey or green undertones. They feel crisp, clean and modern, and they look sharp in bright light.
• Neutral whites sit in between, with very little visible undertone. They’re the most flexible, but they can look flat in some rooms.

To spot the undertone, hold the swatch against a sheet of plain printer paper. The colour it leans towards (yellow, pink, grey or blue) is its undertone.

Light changes everything

In Australia, north-facing rooms get the most direct sun, and that warm light makes whites look warmer. South-facing rooms get cooler, indirect light, which makes whites look greyer and colder. East-facing rooms are warm in the morning and cooler later; west-facing rooms are the opposite.

• South-facing or dim rooms: a warm white usually stops the room from feeling cold and grey.
• North-facing, sunny rooms: you can use almost any white; a cool or neutral white keeps the room feeling fresh rather than yellow.
• Artificial light: warm white globes (around 2700K–3000K) push whites warmer at night; cool globes (4000K and up) push them cooler.

Match the white to what’s already in the room

Your white has to work with things you can’t easily change:

• Warm timber floors, beige carpet, terracotta tiles: warm or neutral whites sit comfortably with them.
• Grey tiles, cool carpet, black and chrome finishes: cool or neutral whites look cleaner.
• Navy, blue and grey furniture: very warm, creamy whites can look yellow next to blue; choose a cleaner white.
• Earthy, natural styles like Japandi or modern coastal: soft warm whites suit them best.

Strength and sheen

Many paint ranges offer whites in different strengths, such as full, half and quarter strength. If your chosen white looks too strong on the wall, try a lighter strength before you abandon the colour. For sheen, low-sheen or matt finishes are common for living areas and bedrooms, while semi-gloss or gloss is often used for trims and doors. Using a different sheen on trims in the same white is a subtle, professional-looking way to add definition.

How to test whites properly

1. Narrow it down to two or three whites with the undertone you want.
2. Paint large samples, at least A3 size, or use large sample sheets.
3. Put them on different walls, including the darkest one and the one next to a window.
4. Look at them in the morning, mid-afternoon and at night with your lights on.
5. Look at them next to your floor, trims and main furniture.

Never choose a white from a small chip under shop lighting. It’s the most common reason people end up repainting.

FAQ

Should ceilings and walls be the same white?

Using the same white (or a lighter strength of it) on walls and ceilings makes a room feel seamless and taller. A slightly different white is fine, but keep the undertones consistent.

Which white makes a room look bigger?

Whites with a higher light reflectance value (LRV) bounce more light around. In a dim room, though, a very bright cool white can look grey, so a soft warm white often makes the room feel bigger and brighter.

Is there one white that works everywhere?

Not really. Neutral whites come closest, but the right white always depends on the light and finishes in that particular room.

Compare whites in context. Try Taubmans whites on a Design it Yourself style board next to your Carpet Court flooring and furniture, and see which one suits your room before you buy.

Cover photo by Spacejoy on Unsplash.

Here are feature wall ideas that actually work, and how to choose the right one for your space.

First, pick the right wall

The best feature wall is the one your eye goes to naturally when you walk in. That’s usually:

• The wall behind the bed
• The wall behind the sofa or the main seating
• A wall with a fireplace or a built-in feature
• The end wall of a hallway
• The wall behind a dining table or bar area

Avoid walls broken up by several doors and windows. A feature wall needs a clear, uninterrupted surface to have impact.

1. A deep, grounding paint colour

Rich greens, deep blues, terracotta, chocolate and charcoal create drama and make a room feel cosy. Deep colours work especially well behind a bed or in a dining room, where you want intimacy. Keep the other walls in a soft, warm neutral that shares an undertone with the feature colour.

2. Colour drenching (the modern alternative)

Instead of one bold wall, paint the walls, skirting, architraves and sometimes even the ceiling in the same colour, or tones of one colour. It sounds bold, but it often makes a room feel calmer and larger because the edges disappear. It’s a great option for small bedrooms, studies and powder rooms.

3. Two-tone and half walls

Paint the lower third or half of the wall in a deeper colour and the top in a lighter one, or run a painted band at picture-rail height. It adds character without overwhelming the space, and the deeper colour on the lower section hides scuffs in hallways and kids’ rooms.

4. Panelling and battens

V-groove panelling, vertical battens and wainscoting add texture and shadow. Painted the same colour as the rest of the room, they’re subtle; painted a contrast colour, they become the focal point. Battens behind a bed or TV are especially popular in modern Australian homes.

5. Wallpaper

A large-scale print, a botanical mural or a subtle grasscloth texture can do what paint can’t. For renters, removable (peel-and-stick) wallpaper is an option, but check your lease and test a small area first.

6. Limewash and textured finishes

Limewash and other mineral or textured paint finishes give soft, cloudy movement to a wall. They suit Japandi, coastal and Mediterranean-inspired schemes, and look particularly good with natural light moving across them.

7. A painted arch or shape

A painted arch behind a bed, desk or shelf creates a focal point without committing a whole wall. It’s a small, inexpensive project that adds a lot of character.

Tips for getting it right

• Test colours properly. Paint large samples (at least A3 size) on the actual wall and look at them morning, afternoon and night.
• Connect it to the room. Repeat the feature colour in a cushion, artwork or rug so it doesn’t feel random.
• Think about the light. Deep colours look darker on walls that get little sun. In south-facing rooms, choose a slightly lighter or warmer version.
• Keep the rest calm. One focal point is enough. Let the other walls support it.

FAQ

Are feature walls out of style?

The single, randomly bright wall has had its day. Considered feature walls (deep colours, panelling, wallpaper or colour drenching) are very much current.

What colour should the other walls be?

Usually a soft white or warm neutral with a similar undertone to the feature colour. Our guide to warm white vs cool white paint explains how to match them.

Should the ceiling be painted too?

With colour drenching, yes. With a single feature wall, a soft white ceiling is usually best so the room doesn’t feel lower.

Try your feature wall before you paint. Test Taubmans colours on a Design it Yourself style board with your flooring and furniture, and see how the whole room works together first.

Cover photo by Spacejoy on Unsplash.

Common rug sizes in Australia

Sizes vary slightly by brand, so always check the exact measurements.

The golden rule

As a general guide, leave around 20–45 cm of bare floor between the rug and the walls. Less than that and it looks like wall-to-wall carpet that doesn’t quite fit; much more and the rug looks lost. In open-plan spaces, ignore the walls and size the rug to the furniture zone instead.

Living room rug size

There are three common layouts:

• All legs on: the sofa and chairs sit entirely on the rug. This looks luxurious and suits large rooms, but needs a big rug (often 240 x 340 or larger).
• Front legs on: the front legs of every seat sit on the rug. This is the most versatile option and connects the furniture with a 200 x 300 rug in most rooms.
• Coffee table only: only suits very small spaces. If you go this way, the rug should still be wider than the coffee table by a good margin.

A handy check: the rug should be at least as wide as your sofa, and ideally a little wider (around 15–20 cm each side).

Dining room rug size

Chairs need to stay on the rug when they’re pulled out, otherwise they catch on the edge every time someone sits down. Measure your table and add at least 60–75 cm on every side. For a typical 6-seat table, that usually means 200 x 300 or larger. Choose a low-pile or flat-woven rug that’s easy to clean under a dining table.

Bedroom rug size

Most people place the rug across the bottom two-thirds of the bed, leaving the bedside tables on the floor. Aim for the rug to extend 45–60 cm beyond each side of the bed, so your feet land on something soft when you get up.

• Queen bed: 200 x 300 placed sideways is the most common choice; 160 x 230 suits a tight room.
• King bed: 240 x 340 sideways.
• Alternative: a pair of runners down each side of the bed works well in narrow rooms.

Hallways and runners

Leave roughly 10–15 cm of floor visible either side of a runner, and leave clear floor at each end so doors can open freely.

Test before you buy

Mark the rug’s outline on the floor with painter’s tape or lay down sheets of newspaper. Live with it for a day. It’s the cheapest way to avoid an expensive mistake, and it nearly always shows people they need to size up.

FAQ

Should a rug go under the sofa?

Ideally yes, at least the front legs. It connects the sofa to the rest of the seating and makes the room look bigger.

Can I layer rugs?

Yes. Layering a smaller patterned rug over a large jute or sisal rug is a good way to get the right size without paying for a large statement rug.

Does a rug work on carpet?

It can, especially to define a zone or add colour. Choose a low-pile or flat-woven rug so it sits flat and doesn’t move.

See it to scale first. Plan your room on a Design it Yourself style board. Try Carpet Court flooring and rugs from leading retailers with your furniture and Taubmans wall colours before you buy.

Cover photo by Spacejoy on Unsplash.

Where Japandi comes from

Both traditions value simplicity, natural materials and good craftsmanship. Japanese design brings wabi-sabi, the appreciation of imperfect, natural and handmade things. Scandinavian design brings hygge, the focus on cosiness and comfort. Japandi sits where those ideas overlap: fewer things, better made, and genuinely comfortable to live with.

The Japandi colour palette

Japandi palettes are muted and earthy:

• Bases: warm white, soft greige, pale clay
• Supporting tones: oatmeal, sand, mushroom, stone
• Depth: charcoal, black and dark-stained timber
• Accents: muted sage, olive, rust or indigo, used sparingly

The contrast between pale walls and a few dark elements, like a black lamp, a charcoal cushion or a dark timber bench, keeps Japandi from looking washed out.

Materials: natural, honest and tactile

• Light timbers such as oak and ash, paired with darker stained or charred wood
• Bamboo, rattan and paper (think paper lantern pendants)
• Linen, cotton and wool in their natural colours
• Stone, concrete and handmade ceramics

Choose matt finishes over gloss wherever you can. Texture matters more than pattern in a Japandi room.

Furniture: low, simple and well made

Japandi furniture tends to sit lower to the ground, with clean lines and visible craftsmanship such as exposed joinery or solid timber. Choose a low-profile sofa, a simple timber coffee table, a platform bed and a bench instead of a fussy hall table. Every piece should be useful and good to look at.

Flooring

Light timber or timber-look floors are the natural fit. In bedrooms, a soft, textured carpet in a warm neutral adds the cosiness Scandi design is known for. Layer a flat-woven wool or jute rug in the living area to define the space.

Styling: less, but better

• Clear the surfaces. Hide everyday clutter in closed storage so the few objects on display can breathe.
• Display in small groups. A ceramic vase, a stack of books and a single branch say more than a crowded shelf.
• Bring nature in. Sculptural plants, like an olive tree, a fiddle-leaf fig or a simple branch in a vase, suit Japandi better than lots of small pots.
• Use soft, warm lighting. Paper and linen shades, warm white globes and lamps at low height.

Japandi vs minimalism

Pure minimalism can feel stark. Japandi keeps the simplicity but adds warmth: more texture, more natural materials, more comfort. If your minimalist room feels cold, Japandi is usually the fix.

FAQ

Is Japandi expensive to achieve?

Not necessarily. Because the style uses fewer pieces, you can spend more on the few that matter, such as a good timber table or sofa, and keep everything else simple. Decluttering is free and does half the work.

Does Japandi work with kids?

Yes. The emphasis on closed storage and durable natural materials makes it practical. Choose washable linen covers and wool rugs, which handle wear well.

Build a calm Japandi room. Start a style board on Design it Yourself. Try warm whites and earthy Taubmans colours with Carpet Court flooring and natural homewares, all on one board.

Cover photo by Thufeil M on Unsplash.

Here’s what defines a Hamptons style interior, and how to get it right without it feeling like a showroom.

The key elements of Hamptons style

1. A crisp, classic palette

The base is white or soft white on walls and joinery, with navy, soft blue and grey as supporting colours. Natural tones (sand, stone, timber) keep it warm. Unlike coastal style, Hamptons uses contrast deliberately: think white walls, a navy armchair and dark timber or polished nickel accents.

2. Panelling and architectural detail

Wall panelling is one of the clearest Hamptons signatures. V-groove (VJ) boards, wainscoting and shiplap-style panels add depth and shadow to white walls. Shaker-style cabinetry in kitchens and laundries, and generous skirting and architraves, finish the look.

3. Timber floors

Mid to light timber floors, often oak, ground the scheme. In bedrooms, a soft neutral carpet works well. Layer rugs in natural fibres like jute, sisal or a flat-woven wool for texture.

4. Tailored, comfortable furniture

Look for sofas with clean lines in linen or cotton (slipcovers are very Hamptons, and practical), upholstered dining chairs, rattan or cane accent pieces, and timber tables in a weathered or white finish.

5. Symmetry

Hamptons rooms often feel calm because they’re balanced. Think matching lamps either side of a sofa or bed, pairs of armchairs and a mirror centred over a console. You don’t need perfect symmetry everywhere, but a few mirrored pairs instantly make a room feel considered.

6. Fabrics and pattern

Stripes (especially blue-and-white), subtle checks and simple florals in linen and cotton. Keep pattern to cushions, a throw or a single armchair so the overall look stays crisp.

7. Lighting and metals

Ceramic or glass lamp bases with linen shades, lantern pendants and woven light fittings. For hardware, choose polished nickel, chrome or brushed brass, and keep one finish consistent through a room.

Common Hamptons mistakes

• Too much blue. Navy works best as an accent against plenty of white and natural texture.
• All white, no warmth. Without timber, rattan and linen, a white-and-navy room can feel cold.
• Furniture that’s too formal. Hamptons is relaxed luxury; it should still invite you to put your feet up.
• Forgetting the floor. Grey tiles or cool carpet can undercut the warmth of the scheme.

Hamptons vs coastal

If you prefer a looser, more textural look, with less navy, less symmetry and more weathered timber, coastal interior design may suit you better. Many Australian homes blend the two, with Hamptons structure (panelling, symmetry) and a coastal palette.

FAQ

Can you do Hamptons style in a modern or small home?

Yes. Focus on the elements that don’t need architecture: the palette, linen upholstery, rattan accents, symmetry and lamps. Panelling can be added to a single wall, such as behind a bed, for impact.

What white works for Hamptons interiors?

A clean, slightly soft white suits most Hamptons schemes, especially with navy accents. Very warm, creamy whites can look yellow next to blue. See our guide to warm vs cool whites for how to test.

See your Hamptons room come together. Create a style board on Design it Yourself. Pair Taubmans whites and blues with Carpet Court flooring and furniture from leading retailers, then shop it all from one list.

Cover photo by Chastity Cortijo on Unsplash.

The difference comes down to restraint. Here’s how to get the feeling of the coast without the clichés.

What defines coastal interior design

Coastal style is built on three things: light, natural texture and a soft palette taken from sand, sea and sky. The goal is a room that feels bright, breezy and unfussy. It should be somewhere you could walk in barefoot after a swim without worrying about the furniture.

The colour palette

Start with a warm or soft white on the walls to bounce light around. Then add colours from the landscape rather than from a nautical flag:

• Sand and stone: oatmeal, warm beige, pale greige
• Water: soft blue-grey, faded denim, seafoam
• Coastal scrub: sage, olive and eucalyptus greens
• Accents: driftwood, weathered timber, a touch of terracotta for a modern Australian take

Keep saturated navy and bright aqua for small accents, if you use them at all. Coastal rooms that feel calm are almost always mostly neutral.

Materials and textures

Texture does most of the work in a coastal room. Look for:

• Light timber: oak, ash or whitewashed finishes
• Natural fibres: rattan, cane, jute, sisal and seagrass
• Washed linen and cotton for sofas, cushions and bedding
• Stone, ceramic and handmade pottery
• Sheer curtains that filter light rather than block it

Flooring that suits coastal living

Floors need to look light and handle sand and traffic. Pale timber or timber-look floors are the classic choice. Light, textured carpet works well in bedrooms, and a jute or wool-blend rug softens a hard floor in the living room. Avoid very dark floors, which show every grain of sand and fight the airy feel.

Furniture: relaxed, not precious

Choose deep, comfortable sofas with washable covers, timber or rattan side tables, and pieces with simple lines. A little wear and weathering is part of the look, so coastal style is forgiving of family life.

How to avoid the theme-park look

• Skip the literal decor. No anchors, ship wheels, life rings or word art. Let texture and colour suggest the coast instead.
• One shell is a find; twenty is a collection problem. Display natural objects sparingly.
• Don’t match everything to blue. Mostly-white-and-blue rooms tip into nautical very quickly.
• Use real art. A large abstract in soft blues and sands beats any print with the word “beach” on it.
• Add plants. Greenery stops a light room from feeling cold.

Coastal vs Hamptons: what’s the difference?

They’re often confused. Coastal is relaxed, textural and a little undone. Hamptons is its more polished cousin: crisper whites, navy, symmetry, panelled walls and more formal furniture. If you’re drawn to the tailored version, read our guide to Hamptons style interiors.

FAQ

Do you need to live near the beach to use coastal style?

No. Coastal style is about light and natural materials, and it works anywhere with good natural light. In darker rooms, lean on warmer whites and more timber so the space doesn’t feel cold.

What wall colour works best for coastal interiors?

A soft or warm white is the safest base, with pale sand or soft blue-grey as alternatives. Test samples on several walls and look at them morning and evening before you commit. Our white paint guide explains how.

Try the look before you buy it. Build a coastal style board on Design it Yourself with real Taubmans colours, Carpet Court flooring and furniture from leading retailers, and see the whole room together first.

Cover photo by Brian Zajac on Unsplash.

Here’s how to build one that actually helps you make decisions, rather than a pretty collage you never look at again.

What a mood board is (and what it isn’t)

A mood board is a visual plan for one room. It shows the wall colour, the flooring, the main furniture, the textiles and the finishing touches side by side, so you can see whether they work together. It isn’t a Pinterest board of 300 rooms you like. Inspiration is where you start; the mood board is where you commit.

Step 1: Define the room before the look

Start with how the room needs to work, not how it should look. Write down:

• Who uses the room and when (morning light? evening TV? kids and pets?)
• What has to stay: a sofa you love, built-in joinery, the flooring in a rental
• What isn’t working right now
• Your rough budget

A living room with a toddler and a dog needs different fabrics from a guest bedroom used four nights a year. Settling this first stops you falling for pieces that won’t survive real life.

Step 2: Gather inspiration, then find the pattern

Collect 15–20 images of rooms you’re drawn to, then look for what they have in common. Are they mostly light timber and white? Dark and moody? Full of pattern? You’ll usually find two or three repeating ideas, and that’s your style direction. If you’re not sure what to call it, our guides to Japandi, coastal and Hamptons interiors are a good place to start.

Step 3: Choose a palette of three to five colours

Pick one main colour (usually the walls and largest surfaces), one or two supporting colours (sofa, curtains, rug) and one accent (cushions, art, a vase). A useful guide is the 60-30-10 split: roughly 60% main colour, 30% supporting, 10% accent. It doesn’t have to be exact, but it keeps a room from feeling either flat or chaotic.

Wall colour is the biggest decision on the board, so test it properly. If you’re torn between whites, read our guide to warm white vs cool white paint before you buy a single tin.

Step 4: Add the floor

Flooring is the most expensive thing to change and the easiest to forget on a mood board. Add your actual floor, whether it’s existing timber, tiles or carpet, or the new option you’re considering. A warm oak floor and a cool grey carpet push a room in very different directions, and every other choice has to sit happily on top of it.

Step 5: Place your anchor piece

Every room has one piece that everything else responds to: the sofa in a living room, the bed in a bedroom, the table in a dining room. Put it on the board early. If you’re keeping an existing piece, it’s your anchor by default, and the rest of the board needs to work around its colour and shape.

Step 6: Layer textures and materials

Rooms built from a single texture feel flat, even when the colours are right. Mix at least three: something smooth (glass, ceramic, metal), something soft (linen, wool, velvet) and something natural or rough (timber, rattan, jute, stone). This is what makes neutral rooms feel warm instead of sterile.

Step 7: Check scale and quantity

A mood board can make a room look great on screen and terrible in real life if the sizes are wrong. Note the dimensions of the big pieces and check them against your floor plan. The most common mistake is a rug that’s too small; our rug size guide covers how to get it right.

Step 8: Edit, then turn it into a shopping list

Step back and remove anything that’s fighting for attention. A good board usually has fewer items than you think. Then list every piece with its price and where to buy it. This is the point where a mood board pays for itself: you buy with confidence instead of guessing, and you stop impulse purchases that don’t fit the plan.

Paper, Pinterest or a style board?

Paper boards with real paint chips and fabric swatches are great for feeling textures, but they’re slow to change. Pinterest is fast but disconnected from real products and prices. A digital style board sits in the middle: you work with real products, swap them in seconds, and end up with a list you can actually buy from.

FAQ

How many items should go on a mood board?

For one room, 8–15 items is usually enough: wall colour, floor, anchor piece, two or three other furniture pieces, rug, curtains, lighting and a few accessories. More than that and the board stops helping you decide.

Should I do one mood board for the whole house?

Do one board per room, but keep a shared thread, such as a consistent wall colour, timber tone or metal finish, so the rooms feel connected as you move through the house.

Do I need a mood board if I’m only changing a few things?

Yes, and it’s even more useful then. Putting your existing pieces on the board shows you exactly what the new items need to work with.

Ready to build yours? Start a blank style board on Design it Yourself. Add Taubmans wall colours, Carpet Court flooring and homewares from leading retailers, then shop the whole look from your list.

Cover photo by Mohammad Lotfian on Unsplash.

Image Unsplash

The top 5 benefits of shipping container homes are:

1. Cost-Effective: One of the most significant advantages of shipping container homes is their cost-effectiveness. Compared to traditional construction methods, repurposing shipping containers as living spaces can be considerably cheaper. The containers themselves are relatively inexpensive, and their modular nature allows for streamlined construction, reducing labor and material costs.
2. Eco-Friendly and Sustainable: Recycling shipping containers to create homes aligns perfectly with eco-friendly principles. By reusing existing materials, this housing option reduces the demand for new resources and minimizes the environmental impact associated with traditional building materials. Additionally, the use of container homes can contribute to lowering carbon footprints, making them an excellent choice for environmentally-conscious individuals.
3. Quick Construction: Shipping container homes can be built much faster than traditional houses. Since the containers already provide a solid structural foundation, a significant portion of the construction work is done during the container’s fabrication. Once delivered to the building site, the assembly and customization process can be completed in a fraction of the time required for conventional construction.
4. Flexibility and Mobility: Shipping container homes offer remarkable flexibility and portability. Their modular design allows for easy expansion or downsizing as needed. Moreover, in certain cases, they can be transported to different locations, making them an appealing choice for those who desire a movable dwelling or temporary housing solutions.
5. Stylish and Customizable: Contrary to the misconception that shipping container homes lack aesthetic appeal, these structures can be creatively designed and tailored to suit individual tastes and preferences. From contemporary minimalistic designs to luxurious and sophisticated interiors, the adaptability of shipping containers allows for a wide range of customization options, offering a unique and personalized living space for their inhabitants.

Cost Effective Shipping Container homes:

The cost-effectiveness of shipping container homes arises from several factors that make them a financially attractive housing option. First and foremost, the primary building material—the shipping container itself—is relatively inexpensive when compared to conventional building materials like bricks, concrete, or timber. The availability of used shipping containers in the market further reduces costs, as these containers can be obtained at a fraction of the price of new ones.

Moreover, the modular nature of shipping containers plays a crucial role in keeping construction expenses low. As standardized building blocks, containers are designed to be stacked and interlocked easily, enabling a seamless assembly process. This streamlined construction significantly reduces labor costs, as less time and workforce are required to complete the structural framework. Additionally, the prefabricated nature of containers allows for faster on-site assembly, minimizing the overall construction timeline and, consequently, labor expenses.

Another cost-saving aspect of shipping container homes is their potential for energy efficiency. The steel structure of the containers inherently provides good insulation, helping to maintain a comfortable indoor temperature. As a result, container homes often require less energy for heating and cooling, leading to reduced utility costs over the long term.

Furthermore, the customization options available with shipping container homes can contribute to cost savings. The ability to modify and personalize the interior layout allows homeowners to optimize the use of space and tailor the design according to their needs. By planning the layout efficiently and strategically, unnecessary square footage can be minimized, which not only saves on construction costs but also reduces ongoing maintenance and utility expenses.

Beyond the initial cost savings, shipping container homes also offer the potential for financial benefits in the long run. Their durability and robust construction can lead to lower maintenance costs over time compared to traditional homes, which may require more frequent repairs and renovations. Additionally, the growing popularity of shipping container homes has led to an increase in the demand for this type of housing, potentially enhancing property value and investment potential.

Sources:

1. The True Cost of Building a Shipping Container Home: This article explores the cost-effectiveness of shipping container homes and breaks down the expenses involved in constructing one.
2. Container Homes: Pros and Cons: The Spruce provides a comprehensive list of advantages and disadvantages of shipping container homes, including their cost-effectiveness.
3. How Shipping Container Homes Save Money: This blog post discusses how shipping container homes can save money through various aspects, including construction, maintenance, and energy efficiency.
4. Sustainable Living with Shipping Container Homes: GreenMatch delves into the eco-friendly aspects of shipping container homes, highlighting their sustainable features and environmental benefits.
5. Container Homes: 5 Advantages of Building with Shipping Containers: Thrillist outlines five key advantages of shipping container homes, including their cost-effectiveness and adaptability.

Eco-Friendly and Sustainable:

Shipping container homes have garnered attention for their eco-friendly attributes, as they exemplify the principles of recycling and sustainability in the construction industry. By repurposing retired shipping containers, this housing option prevents these large steel structures from ending up as waste in landfills. Instead, they are given a new lease on life as functional and habitable spaces.

1. Reduced Demand for New Resources: The construction industry is notorious for its extensive use of raw materials, leading to deforestation, increased mining activities, and higher energy consumption. By utilizing shipping containers as building blocks, container homes reduce the demand for new resources like timber, bricks, and concrete, all of which require substantial energy and resources to manufacture. As a result, fewer natural habitats are disturbed, and the environmental impact associated with extracting and processing these materials is diminished.
2. Minimization of Environmental Impact: Traditional building materials, such as concrete and brick, have a significant carbon footprint due to the energy-intensive manufacturing processes involved. Shipping containers, on the other hand, already exist and are readily available for repurposing. By giving them a new life as homes, the environmental impact associated with producing new construction materials is considerably reduced. Additionally, container homes often require less extensive site preparation and foundation work, further lowering their overall impact on the environment.
3. Energy Efficiency and Sustainable Design: The inherent properties of shipping containers contribute to energy-efficient homes. The steel structure provides durability and insulation, helping to maintain a comfortable indoor temperature. With proper insulation and climate control, container homes can minimize heating and cooling needs, thus reducing energy consumption and lowering greenhouse gas emissions associated with conventional heating and cooling systems.
4. Reduced Construction Waste: Traditional construction often generates a significant amount of waste, from excess materials to unused components. Container homes, being prefabricated structures, produce comparatively less waste during the construction process. This reduction in waste not only benefits the environment but also saves money on waste disposal and contributes to a cleaner building site.
5. Encouraging Sustainable Lifestyles: Beyond the environmental benefits of recycling shipping containers, container homes can also encourage sustainable lifestyles. The use of smaller living spaces can promote conscious consumption, as homeowners may be compelled to downsize and adopt a more minimalist lifestyle, resulting in reduced consumption of resources and overall environmental impact.

Sources:

• Shipping Container Homes – Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Living: This article from Decoist explores the eco-friendly features of shipping container homes and how they contribute to sustainable living.
• The Pros and Cons of Container Homes: Architecture & Design provides insights into the environmental advantages of container homes, including their role in reducing construction waste and promoting sustainability.
• Sustainability in Shipping Container Architecture: ArchDaily discusses the sustainable aspects of shipping container architecture, focusing on the principles of recycling and energy efficiency.
• Sustainable Development and Shipping Container Homes: This academic paper examines the potential of shipping container homes to contribute to sustainable development and environmentally conscious urban living.

Quick Construction:

One of the most compelling advantages of shipping container homes is their remarkable speed of construction when compared to traditional houses. This efficiency is primarily attributed to two key factors: the pre-existing structural foundation provided by the shipping containers and the modular nature of their design.

1. Prefabricated Structural Foundation: Shipping containers are essentially ready-made building blocks, manufactured in controlled environments and designed to withstand the rigors of international shipping. As a result, a significant portion of the construction work is completed during the container’s fabrication process. The containers are constructed to be robust, weather-resistant, and stackable, providing a strong and reliable structural foundation for the home.
2. Streamlined On-Site Assembly: Once the shipping containers are delivered to the building site, the assembly process is remarkably efficient. Since containers are already designed to interlock and stack securely, their placement is a straightforward process. This modular design reduces the need for extensive on-site construction work, such as pouring foundations and erecting walls, which can be time-consuming in traditional construction.
3. Faster Building Permits and Approvals: Due to their standardized and modular nature, shipping container homes may also encounter fewer challenges during the permitting and approval process. Compared to complex and custom-designed houses, container homes often adhere to simpler building codes and regulations, expediting the administrative procedures and reducing waiting times for permits.
4. Ease of Customization: While the structural foundation is provided by the containers, the customization options for shipping container homes are virtually limitless. Homeowners can choose various configurations, layouts, and designs to suit their preferences and needs. This adaptability allows for quick customization during the assembly process, speeding up the overall construction timeline.
5. Rapid Turnaround Time: Owing to the reduced on-site construction and streamlined assembly, shipping container homes boast an impressive turnaround time. In many cases, a container home can be completed in a matter of weeks, while traditional houses may take several months or even years to finish, depending on their size and complexity.

Sources:

• Why Shipping Container Homes Are a Quick and Affordable Housing Solution: House Beautiful explores the factors contributing to the speed and affordability of shipping container homes.
• How to Build Your Own Shipping Container Home: Green Building Advisor provides insights into the process of building a shipping container home and highlights its potential for rapid construction.
• Shipping Container Homes: How to Build Quickly on a Tight Budget: Insteading discusses the practicality and efficiency of shipping container homes, emphasizing their quick construction and cost-effective attributes.
• Container Housing, Quick and Sustainable?: This research paper delves into the speed and sustainability aspects of container housing, showcasing the benefits of this housing option for rapid construction.